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    September 08

    从钟鼓楼到什刹海

      幼时的玩伴从南方来到北京,想要找几处有京味且又不曾被旅行社逛烂的景点赏玩,顺便买些纪念品,于是两人踏着满街的灯火从钟鼓楼漫步到什刹海,看到了一街之隔的两种截然不同的风景。

      夜幕中的钟鼓楼在灯光的照射下褪去了那一身历史的厚重与沧桑,反倒显得愈发威严。而它的脚下,没有了白天为了钟鼓楼和胡同游而来的观光客,最质朴的市民生活景象反倒突显了出来。几家老字号的小吃店红红火火,南北炒货铺里铺开了各色干货,钟楼鼓楼间的开阔地上胡同里的住户们借着昏暗的路灯席地而坐,唠嗑纳凉。老人遛狗,孩子嬉闹,自得其乐。行走间,朋友对钟鼓楼围墙上装饰的各种瑞兽上缠绕的铁丝产生了好奇,路边纳凉的大婶就主动告诉我们这是避雷针。或许对于这里的百姓而言,那众人向往的钟鼓楼也是自家大院里的东西,因而也乐得向陌生的访客介绍一下这个巨大的收藏品。正是这种心态让这些小小的胡同人家能够知足常乐,才构筑了这方小天地里其乐融融的气氛吧。

      前行不远就是烟袋斜街,街的两边陈列着各种店铺,铺子的主人用淘来的商品将自己的店布置地各俱特色。从少数民族的饰品到玉器印章,甚至于个性化的火柴和印着四五十年代标语的T恤都可以自成一家。古色古香的老街用一种简单的包容就收藏了几个时代。

      巷子的深处连接着后海如织的游人和一片灯红酒绿,经过时间的洗礼这里已经发展成了北京酒吧的一个标志。后海的湖水映着各色霓虹星星点点,酒吧的歌手各展歌喉,融合着复古与流行。酒客们或三五成群,或两两成双,觥筹交错之间让人有一种回到往昔秦淮河的错觉。而酒客之外,更多的是慕名而来的游人。呼朋引伴,来来往往,只为在夜未央时感受一下京城水都的桨声灯影。

      一块古老的匾额,一条不宽的街道就在这小小的空间里隔开了两个世界,而两个世界偶尔的碰撞激出的火花便形成了交界部的神韵。在布局时只为这两种冲突的氛围留下一段窄窄的缓冲带也可以算的上是这座城市有容乃大的智慧吧。

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    Bonnie 徐wrote:
    我非常喜欢那一带~~那一片~~喜欢那里的bar~
    Sept. 9

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